The story of a U.S.-Canadian returning to Iran after 40 years

A horse trainer returns after four decades

As tour operators, we sometimes help travellers reconnect with places that shaped their lives. In 2017, one such journey brought Gail Rose Thompson, a Canadian-born horse trainer then in her seventies, back to Iran after four decades.

Editorial note: This is a historical account of a journey arranged in 2017, not guidance on current visa eligibility. Check official entry requirements before planning travel.

Just before sunset on 9 March 2017, as I was preparing to leave the office, the phone rang. Gail explained that she wanted to travel to Iran independently in spring.

Gail spoke warmly about her years in Iran. “I used to be horse trainer in Iran,” she said, adding that she “would like to come to Iran, once again after 40 years, to see this memorable land, the monarchy’s horse farm, the horse club of the queen, the Turkmen harbour horse racing, the traditional Turkman horses and more importantly my trainees.”

Her memories made a strong impression on me, and I wanted to help her make the return journey.

Arranging the trip was not straightforward. Given Gail’s past work with the royal court and the visa uncertainties of 2017, we knew the application would require care. We nevertheless continued with the preparations.

Gail’s first visa application coincided with changes to travel restrictions and uncertainty about reciprocal visa arrangements in 2017. Her proposed journey was delayed.

During correspondence with Iran’s equestrian community, we learned that former colleagues still remembered Gail’s discipline and commitment as a trainer, even after nearly forty years.

Gail spoke warmly about the horses she had trained in Iran, including Kurdish, Turkmen and Akhal-Teke breeds. She hoped to meet former trainees, visit riding clubs and learn how the country’s equestrian community had changed. She also wrote about her life in Iran in All the Shah’s Horses, a memoir of her work with horses and riders in the 1970s. Read more on the author’s official website.

A difficult visa process

Our second attempt to obtain a visa for Gail began in early July 2017. We presented her documents to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and we were hopeful that the process would be successful this time. After a month of patiently waiting for the results, we were told that her visa was issued but then cancelled on the same day.

We waited while the conflicting messages were checked. After contacting the Iranian Interests Section in Washington, DC, we were informed that Gail’s visa had been issued and that a technical error had caused the confusion. This account describes the process in 2017, not current visa rules; travellers should check the latest requirements before making plans.

We shared the news with Gail and arranged her journey. She returned to Iran in autumn 2017 and reunited with former colleagues and friends, as confirmed on her official website.

Reconnecting with Iran’s equestrian community

The 2017 itinerary included riding clubs in Isfahan and Tehran. Gail also hoped to travel to Turkmen Sahra to see its horses and remember the equestrian pioneer Louise Laylin Firouz. Those plans are part of this historical travel account and should not be read as a current itinerary.

Read more about Gail and her books on Gail Rose Thompson’s official website.