Tabriz

Tabriz runs on its bazaar, a UNESCO-listed maze of brick vaults where carpet dealers still trade. Our articles start in the city: Behnam House, the Qajar Museum, the clock tower of the municipality and El Goli, a pavilion on a lake.

Then they head out to Eynali mountain and Kandovan, where houses are carved into volcanic cones. Practical pieces cover the airport, the best time to visit and hotels. Our Tabriz travel guide covers the rest.