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Vegetarians in Iran – A Guide for Vegetarians Traveling to Iran

Finding vegetarian food in Iran can be difficult. Part of the reason is cultural, and it is tied to the history of the country.

Not only most of the population were pastoralists and meat and dairy were always present in their food, but also eating meat used to indicate a higher social status, as it showed the ability to afford meat. (Same applies to consuming white rice and white bread, which used to be scarce and some elderly still believe that refined grains are healthier than the whole grain ones).

RESTAURANT OR NO?

Normally if you just walk into a regular restaurant, you won’t have much luck in finding a vegetarian dish there.

Now a days there are vegetarian and vegan restaurants opened in Tehran and you can find them with a simple search on google maps. You can also get lucky in some high-end restaurants in major cities or to find  street food like Falafel sandwich (slightly different from Lebanese Falafel) or Sambuseh (similar to Aloo Samosa of India).

But except when you are traveling in province of Gilan and especially city of Rasht (which is Food Heaven of Iran!!) your only chance of tasting a delicious vegetarian dish is at Iranian homes.

Yatimcheh
Yatimcheh is traditionally made on the stovetop with eggplants, zucchini, onions, garlic. Photo: foodhini.com

EGGPLANT BASED

  • Kashk-e Bademjan (eggplant with whey sauce dip)
    Boorani Bademjan (eggplant with yogurt sauce dip)
  • Yatimcheh (eggplant with tomato sauce)
  • Naz Khatoon (eggplant and herbs dip with slightly sour taste)

EGG BASED

KooKoo-Sbzi
Kookoo sabzi is an Iranian egg-based dish similar to an Italian frittata. Photo: taste.com.au
  • Kookoo is a category of food similar to Spanish Tortilla or Omelette, that is cooked with different vegetables.
  • Kookoo Sibzamini (with potato)
  • Kookoo Sabzi (with mixed herbs, walnut and barberry)
  • Kookoo Kadoo sabz (with zucchini)
  • kookoo loobia (with green beans)
  • Omelette in Iran is only one kind: a tomato omelette which has more tomatoes than eggs
  • Khagineh (with yogurt, could be made sweet or savory)
  • Nargesi (with spinach and onions)

RICE BASED (POLO AND DAMPOKHT)

Baghali polo
Baghali polo – Photo: fae-magazine.com

In general, there are three kinds of cooking rice. Chelo is name for white rice that is served with stew or kebabs, Polo is the rice mixed with other ingredients, and dampokht (or dami), same as polo, but with a different method of cooking. Most of Polos contain meat and most of Dampokhts are meatless. Dampokhts and polos are good options for vegans.

  • Dampokhte baghala and Baghali polo (rice with broad beans and dill)
  • Dampokhte Gojeh (rice with tomato and sometimes potato)
  • Estanboli (dampokhte gojeh with green beans or in some regions with potatoes)
  • Dampokhte Mash (rice with mung beans)
  • Adas polo (rice with lentils and raisins)
  • Havij Polo (rice with carrots and walnut)
  • Loobia polo (in different parts of the country loobia polo can refer to dampokht with pinto beans or estanboli with green beans)

KHORAAK

Adasi
Adasi – Photo: dustaan.com
  • Do Piazeh Aloo (potatos and onions and tomato paste)
  • Eshkeneh (potato and egg soup-like dish with herbs)
  • Kale Joosh (whey sauce, walnut and herbs)
  • Khorak Loobia (Pinto beans and tomato sauce thick soup)
  • Adasi (lentils)
  • Daal adas (Daal in tomato sauce along with onions and potato)

ASH

Ash Balghour – Photo: Ghazaland
  • Ash is a category of old dishes in Iran which are more like thick soups. There are many varieties of Ash in Iran and each region has a special Ash of their own.
  • Ash Reshteh (legumes, herbs, noodles, served with whey sauce)
  • Ash Gandom (legumes and wheat with herbs)
  • Ash Jo (legumes and barley)
  • Ash Balghour
  • Ash Doogh (Yogurt based Ash)
  • Ash Anar (rice, lentils and Pomegranate sauce)

COLD DISHES

Abdough Khiar translates as “water, yogurt drink, cucumber,”
Abdough Khiar translates as “water, yogurt drink, cucumber,”

Cold dishes are mainly for hot summer days and usually have yogurt because of its cool nature

  • Ab Doogh Khiar (Yogurt, cucumber, walnut and dried mint)
  • Boorani Esfenaj (Spinach and yogurt)
  • Mast o Khiar (Yogurt and cucumber)

AND FINALLY VEGETARIAN GILANI DISHES THAT YOU HAVE TO TRY!

Baghala Ghatogh
Baghala Ghatogh
  • Mirza Ghasemi (eggplant with tomato, garlic and eggs) you probably find it in other parts of the country as well.
  • Baghala Ghatogh (Rashti fava beans, eggs and dill)
  • Torshi Tareh (Herbs stew with eggs and sour taste)
  • Paneer boroshteh (cheese, eggs and dill)
  • Kaal Kabab (Eggplant and pomegranate jouice)
  • Sir Vavij or Sir Ghelieh (green garlic and eggs)
  • Shish Andaz (Eggplant, walnut and pomegranate paste)
  • Bagnala Khoshkabij (Broad beans with eggs)
  • Kooyee khoresh (butternut squash with lentils and walnuts)

Finding vegetarian foods in Iran is not as difficult as it may seem!

There is an expression about Persian gastronomy which literally goes like this: “A food without meat is like a child without father!” So, the idea of vegetarian dishes are pretty new in Iran. But, and in spite of the fact that meat forms an important part of many foods and acts like a base in most dishes that you can ask for in Iranian restaurants, there are many restaurants which only offer vegetarian foods and you are able to try Persian gastronomy without having to eat meat. In this article, I try to introduce some of the best vegetarian restaurants in each touristic cities of Iran for those who follow this special diet.

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As the capital of Iran and most populated city, you have numerous options for eating vegetarian foods in Tehran. These options range from the most economic ones to more expensive places.

Ananda is one of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in the city which tries to offer vegetarian foods, both among Iranian dishes as well as international ones. In addition to the good quality, Ananda offers a very pleasant ambient and the menu consists of many, many delicious options.

As the capital of Iran and most populated city, you have numerous options for eating vegetarian foods in Tehran. These options range from the most economic ones to more expensive places.

Ananda is one of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in the city which tries to offer vegetarian foods, both among Iranian dishes as well as international ones. In addition to the good quality, Ananda offers a very pleasant ambient and the menu consists of many, many delicious options.

Khane Honarmandan restaurant, located in Artists’ park in Tehran is another great option which will satisfy you in regard to vegetarian foods. Zamin is another restaurant located in the west part of the city and also has a small store for those who wish to buy special vegan foods or ingredients.

Other options in Tehran consist of Tilit, where you can try the vegetarian version of  Dizi, one of the most typical Iranian dishes, and Khoshbin, which mostly serves food from northern part of the country and offers traditional dishes without meat. For a more luxurious option, I suggest Pure restaurant which is located in ASP towers in Tehran and serves high-quality vegetarian dishes.

Partikan traditional hotel-restaurant is where you can try typical Persian foods like khoresh without meat in Isfahan. Hermes is another option located in Jolfa district where you ask for vegetarian foods as well as Italian dishes for those companies who are not vegetarians. Another great option is Zima, where you can try some vegetarian fast foods as well as buying organic products.

To eat a totally vegetarian dish, Joulep Cafe Restaurant can be a great option, because as well as delicious vegan food, the atmosphere is so vibrant and lovely. In Haftkhan restaurant, which is one of the most famous restaurants in Shiraz, you have plenty of options, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals. What I also recommend in Shiraz, is to try different types of Ash here, as it is a typical food made without any meat inside and would be a great option, especially in colder seasons of the year. Shams is one of these places which I definitely recommend you to try.

You can find a great vegetarian meal in Oriental hotel and enjoy your healthy meal in its beautiful roof terrace. Yazd Art House Café is another option where you can find high-quality, totally vegan dishes. The options here are limited, but super delicious, like lentil soup. Both restaurants are popular among tourists and foreigners. In Yazd, you have another vegan option in the street behind Amir Chakhmakh complex, where you can find delicious falafels. Karbala falafel is a recommended one in this part of the city!

In this city, I suggest you to try Khaneh restaurant which is one of the most famous vegetarian restaurants of Mashhad and uses organic products to prepare a healthy dish. Vegan home and Kolbeh restaurants are other options for vegetarian travelers in Mashhad.

Quinoa restaurant in Bandarabbas, Greenland in Karaj and Eshan Historical Guesthouse in Kashan are other places for vegetarian travelers to have their meal while traveling in Iran.

As I mentioned above, total vegetarian food is not that common yet in Iran and therefore, the options are limited. Nevertheless, in any restaurant there are some typical dishes made without meat and in case you can’t find any special place to have a vegan dish, you can ask for  Kashk-e Bademjan (eggplant with whey sauce dip), Boorani Bademjan (eggplant with yogurt sauce dip), Kookoo Sabzi (with mixed herbs, walnut and barberry) or Mirza Ghasemi (eggplant with tomato, garlic and eggs).

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Paria Pourmehdi
Saye Shams
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Fereshteh Sabetian

Fereshteh Sabetian is a World Heritage Studies graduate, a solo traveler, a coffee enthusiast and a cat lover :)

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